I was picked up just after 6 am by a driver that Teste arranged to take me to the Volcano National Park – Gorilla Centre. He was a very pleasant fellow and played country music by Kenny Rogers during the 40 minute drive through the country side. The scenery was beautiful with people planting Irish potatoes in the dark rich soil. All farming is done by hand here – women, men and children busy in the fields.
Upon arrival, I registered and gave them my permit. It is expensive to go on a Gorilla Trek - $500.00 US as well as $100.00 for transport and tips but who would come to Rwanda and not go and see the world famous Gorilla’s. This is where Dian Fosse did years and years of research. The research centre still does wonderful work here, years after her murder. The Gorilla’s are protected from poachers and from humans – there is a stone fence marking the National Park from the community. On occasion, the gorillas do come out of the park for Eucalyptus but then go back quickly.
After an entertaining display of African drumming and dancing, we were divided into groups for our trek. While waiting, I met the German Ambassador to Rwanda and his wife. Our group consists of about 8 people from Denver, New York and Ottawa – very nice people. With our guides, we talked about the group we were trekking to see today – The Umubano tribe, consisting of Charles, The Silverback leader, three females and a number of offspring, including a small baby. The tribes are family, rarely leaving each other. They nest at a new place every day, eat, rest and clean themselves.
Our group then drove another 35 minutes up to the edge of the park – a very bumpy and rocky road – the driver said it was “The African Massage”. It was more fabulous images of children, families and daily life. Upon arrival, we chose a porter and were given a walking stick and off we went. It was wise to hire a porter as it is a challenging trek with slippery and muddy trails – they just grab your hand and haul you along. Even though, I think I am fairly fit – it was difficult going in the dense forest. It would take about an hour to get to the point where we would leave the backpacks and porters and then continue on with the guides.
The Guides speak Gorilla language – they know where the “family” is as they are constantly monitoring them. Off we go, with more “hauling” by the guides. We finally see Charles who is having a lounge – he is not too interested in having company. Maybe he did not get the memo that we were coming today. The guides spoke to him assuring him that we bring no harm. It was fabulous seeing him – then young 3 year olds arrived, playing in the trees. We followed Charles to another location and saw the female with her baby. Along the way, I fell a couple of times, had fire-ants going up my leg and into my shoe and was stung by “Nettles” – a plant you don’t want to touch. One of the guides picked them off me – I should have had “gators” on – next time I will know! I got some amazing pictures but then just stopped and enjoyed the moments watching these beautiful creatures in their natural habitat. We did not get to see all the Gorilla’s in the group today – sometimes you do and sometimes you don’t. This is their natural habitat and not a zoo so the guides are never sure how many will show themselves. Everyone must be very quiet, no pointing, no camera flash and no sudden movements. You only get an hour with them because more time than that will stress them. It is not much time but it is an hour I will never forget.
Then we headed back down the muddy and slippery trail to meet the porters and hike the trail through fields to the bottom. Regis and Job were very helpful to me so I made sure to tip them when we made it down to the parking area. They make such little money here and work so hard. The trek is done after months of dreaming about this day. What a special experience.....
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